Finding the right cat 247 tracks for your multi-terrain loader is one of those tasks that sounds easy until you actually start looking at the price tags and the dozen different options available. If you've owned a Cat 247, 247B, or 247B2 for any length of time, you already know that these machines are absolute beasts when it comes to low ground pressure and a smooth ride. But that specialized undercarriage means you can't just throw any old piece of rubber on there and expect it to perform.
The Cat 247 series is famous for its "soft" touch. It's the machine you bring in when the ground is sensitive, the mud is deep, or you're working on a lawn that you don't want to look like a war zone when you're finished. However, that performance comes at a cost, and that cost is usually felt most when the tracks start to show their age.
Why the 247 undercarriage is a different animal
Before you go out and buy the first set of cat 247 tracks you see online, it's worth remembering why this machine is different from a standard skid steer or even a regular compact track loader (CTL). The 247 is a Multi-Terrain Loader (MTL). Unlike a CTL that uses a heavy steel-embedded track, the 247 uses a system that's mostly rubber and high-strength cords.
Because there's no steel core in these tracks, they are incredibly flexible. This flexibility is what gives the 247 its legendary "float" and why it feels more like you're driving a Cadillac than a piece of heavy equipment. But because they lack that steel reinforcement, they are also more prone to stretching and internal cord damage if you aren't careful. When you're shopping, you have to make sure you're getting tracks designed specifically for this internal-drive, non-steel system. If you try to force a track meant for a different machine, you're just asking for an expensive disaster.
Knowing when it's time to swap them out
We've all been there—trying to squeeze just one more job out of a set of worn-out tracks. You see a little bit of the internal cord showing, or maybe the lugs are looking a bit thin, and you think, "I can make it through the week." Sometimes you can, but more often than not, that's when a track snaps in the middle of a muddy job site, and now you're stuck trying to change a track in the worst possible conditions.
There are a few "red flags" you should look for. First, check the tension. If you're constantly adjusting the tension and the track still feels loose, the internal cords are likely stretched beyond repair. Once they stretch, they won't go back. Second, look for "chunking." If pieces of the rubber are literally falling off, especially on the inside where the rollers run, you're losing the structural integrity of the track.
Lastly, keep an eye on the drive lugs—the little "teeth" on the inside of the track. On a Cat 247, these are crucial. Since it's a rubber-on-rubber drive system, if those lugs are worn down or torn, your drive motor will just slip. You'll hear a nasty jumping sound, and you won't be moving much of anything.
The great debate: OEM vs. aftermarket tracks
This is where most owners spend the most time scratching their heads. Do you go to the local dealer and pay a premium for "official" cat 247 tracks, or do you gamble on something you found on the internet for half the price?
Truth be told, the gap between OEM and high-quality aftermarket tracks has closed a lot over the last decade. Back in the day, aftermarket tracks were a bit of a roll of the dice. Some were great, some were "banana peels" that would fall apart in a month. Today, reputable aftermarket manufacturers use similar high-tensile aramid cords (the stuff in bulletproof vests) to give the tracks the strength they need without the weight of steel.
The main benefit of going aftermarket is, obviously, the price. You can often save a couple of thousand dollars on a full set. The key is to look for a warranty. If a company won't stand behind their tracks for at least 1,000 hours or a year of use, walk away. You want a track that uses a single-mold process, meaning the track is one continuous loop of rubber rather than being "glued" together at a seam. Seams are weak points, and on a 247, they'll be the first thing to pop.
Choosing the right tread pattern for your work
Not all cat 247 tracks are created equal when it comes to the tread. Depending on what you do most of the day, the "standard" pattern might not be your best bet.
- The Multi-Bar Pattern: This is the most common for the 247. It's great for general dirt work and landscaping. It provides a decent amount of bite without being so aggressive that it tears up the turf. It's also the smoothest ride on hard surfaces.
- The C-Lug Pattern: If you find yourself in a lot of mud or slick clay, the C-lug is a lifesaver. The notches in the lugs give you extra edges to grab the ground. It's a bit vibration-heavy on pavement, but in the dirt, it's a night-and-day difference in traction.
- Smooth or Turf Tracks: These are rarer, but if you are doing strictly golf course work or high-end residential landscaping where a single scuff mark means a bad review, these are available. They have almost no "bite," so don't try to climb a muddy hill with them.
A few tips for a painless installation
If you've decided to swap the tracks yourself, grab a buddy. It's technically a one-person job if you're a wizard with a crowbar and a grease gun, but it's a lot faster with two.
The biggest tip I can give you is to get the machine high enough off the ground. You need plenty of clearance to work. Also, take the time to clean the undercarriage while the tracks are off. You'd be surprised how much dried mud, gravel, and random debris gets packed into the rollers. While you have the tracks off, spin every single roller by hand. If one feels "crunchy" or doesn't spin freely, replace it now. It's way cheaper to replace a $100 roller now than to have that seized roller chew up your brand-new $1,500 track in a month.
Making your new tracks last
Once you've spent the money and done the work to install new cat 247 tracks, you probably don't want to do it again for a long time. The best way to kill a set of tracks is "counter-rotating" (spinning the machine in place) on asphalt or concrete. It's like taking a giant eraser and rubbing it against sandpaper.
Try to make wide, gradual turns whenever you can. Also, keep an eye on your tension. A track that's too tight will put unnecessary stress on the drive motor and the cords. A track that's too loose will de-track, which usually results in the drive lugs getting mangled. Check the tension every 50 hours or so—it only takes a minute and can save you a massive headache down the road.
At the end of the day, your Cat 247 is only as good as the rubber it's sitting on. It's the primary interface between your machine and the ground, so it's the one place where you really don't want to cut too many corners. Whether you go with the premium dealer option or a solid aftermarket set, just make sure you're getting something built for the specific needs of an MTL. Your back, your machine, and your wallet will thank you for it.